Italy's hermetic gardens

Now I don't want to sound like some misty-eyed American ready to pull up stakes and move to Tuscany and refurbish a villa with my bare hands and write a best-seller about gorging myself on pasta and squabbling with irritating but lovable Italian bureaucrats. But I loved my time in Italy a couple weeks ago. The place definitely passed the Circus Test, which is the basic measure of whether a circus is good: after the show is over, you want...